Showing posts with label Appalachian Trail. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Appalachian Trail. Show all posts

The Last Sunrise: Bromley Mountain

The time has finally arrived, and our full year of sunrises has come to an end. Last November, my dad and I climbed Mt.Alander for sunrise. Since then, we've been able to get a sunrise from atop a different mountain in the northeast, doing so at least once every month. That first sunrise was only the beginning. Now that a full year has gone by, we've done sunrises just about everywhere, from Camel's Hump in Vermont's Green Mountains, to Mt.Wittenberg in the Catskills, and even two peaks in the Adirondacks. Usually you'd treat an event like this with great respect; making sure the weather will be perfect, and choosing an important mountain. Instead, I made sure to treat our last sunrise like any other hike. We decided to do our last one from atop Bromley Mountain, which is in southern Vermont. While it doesn't rank as our most beautiful sunrise, it definitely wins most unique.


The sunrise behind the ski-lift.

We got to the trailhead a few hours after midnight, with the forest silent and the stars out and shining above us. The path was easy to follow, even with the darkness all around us. We were able to keep track of the blazes, which were everywhere (this section of the path is the Long Trail and Appalachian Trail, after all). It never got steep, and it made for a great, relaxed ending to all the other hikes we've done so far. We passed the lean-to, then emerged onto one of the ski slopes, lit up by the stars above. The lights of Manchester could be seen behind us, with Equinox Mountain visible. We made it up to the summit, where we wandered around the ski-lifts for a while, awaiting the sunrise.


The ski-lift in silhouette over the rising sun.
Peru Peak from Bromley Mountain.
One of many ski-slopes.

As we waited for the sun to appear, I began to take notice of all the early signs of winter. Not only did a fine layer of frost cover most of the equipment, but all the water on the summit was frozen as well. While we were waiting for the break of day, I found many of the huts doors being unlocked, which provided momentary warmth from the freezing winds outside. From the summit could be seen the Coolidge Range to the north, Glebe Mountain to the east, and Stratton Mountain and Glastenbury Mountain to the south.


The ski-lift as the clouds began to move in.

As the wind began to howl, the sun started rising, which lead to the clouds moving in. Usually, an event like this would lead to poor visibility, and in this situation, a lousy sunrise. However, the clouds elevated the experience. As they filled the sky, it appeared the sun was sitting high above a raging fire on the mountain side. Words can barely describe the sight, as it perfectly sat behind one of the ski lifts, putting everything in silhouette. After we watched the sunrise for a while, we tucked away inside the ranger cabin.


The sunrise can be seen through the clouds.
Another view of the sunrise behind the lift.
Some of the chairs in silhouette.

Once the sun had fully risen, we realized the clouds wouldn't leave us, so we began to head down as dawn was breaking. Despite the lack of views from the ski slope, it still made for a beautiful descent. A while after entering the trees, we passed a vista, which offered a decent view toward eastern Vermont. On the way down we were able to admire the trail more. There were many portions that were flooded, but they were pretty easy to avoid.


The Ranger Cabin
The Appalachian/Long Trail north.
The long and winding trail down the slope.
One of the partially flooded sections of trail.

Overall, Bromley Mountain wasn't anything special (despite the truly unique sunrise), and I'm okay with that. Not all things need to finish big, as long as I enjoyed it, I'm fine with it. When it comes to what the future holds for hiking and this blog, I'm unsure of it. I might change the blog slightly, or I might take a break for a while. From Mt.Alander to Bromley Mountain, all I can say is that this wasn't only a great year for sunrises, but it was a fantastic year for hiking in general.

Sunrise and Sunset: White Cap Mountain

The 100-Mile Wilderness is one of the most notorious sections of the Appalachian Trail. Many lakes and ponds are passed along the way, and a few mountains are scaled, including the tallest peak in the area, White Cap Mountain. The broad, open summit area offers outstanding views all over the mountainous terrain of northern Maine.


Sunset over Baker Mountain from White Cap.

There are a few different routes to access the summit of White Cap Mountain. We were going to take White Brook Trail, but it turned out to be closed due to logging, so we headed for the northern trailhead on the Appalachian Trail. After having some difficulty following the roads (as it was our first time in the region) we found the trail and began up the northern side of the mountain.


Appalachian Trail sign.
The trail heading up White Cap Mountain.

The trail was relatively flat the whole way, never getting steep. The hike was surprisingly easy for such an infamously grueling sector of the Appalachian Trail. About half way up we stumbled upon Logan Brook Lean-To. After the camp, the trail followed the "Stairway To Heaven" an extremely well put together set of stone stairs that are seemingly never ending.

A portion of the stairway.

Eventually, we were lead to the first viewpoint, which looked toward Katahdin. The trail flatten then lead further and further up the staircase easily until it emerged out into an alpine meadow, and curved up the side of the mountain until it reached a craggy meadow with views toward Katahdin, Jo-Mary Mountain, and the many lakes of Millinocket.

The first viewpoint toward Katahdin.
Climbing higher and higher.
One of the best portions of it can be seen here.
Katahdin in the distance with Jo-Mary Mountain to the right.

The trail wrapped around the small cluster of trees atop the mountain until it reached a large scree field and the summit sign. From the scree field there were excellent views looking toward West Peak, Hay Mountain, Baker Mountain, Elephant Mountain, and Big Moose Mountain visible in the distance. Coburn Mountain can be seen all the way out.

The view west toward West Peak and Hay Mountain.
Baker Mountain is tallest to the right.

Looking south can be seen the Chairback Range, with peaks such as Barren Mountain, Fourth Mountain, Third Mountain, Columbus Mountain, and Chairback Mountain. Saddleback Mountain can be seen to the southeast, with Moxie Bald Mountain and the Bigelow Range visible to the southwest.


The Bigelow Range (tallest) with Mosquito Mountain in front of it.
Saddleback Mountain with Little Spruce Mountain to the right.
The Chairback Range can be seen in the distance.

From the summit sign the Appalachian Trail continues into the trees past the summit, but we stopped here to find a spot among the trees to pitch the tent. There was a side trail that wound through the trees to a large meadow looking north to Katahdin and the Debsconeag Lakes region. The Spencers and First Roach Pond can also be seen.

The summit sign.
The large body of water is First Roach Pond. The two peaks behind it are the Spencers.
Mt.Shaw can be seen to the right.

Throughout the trees and scree fields can be found several remnants of the former fire tower. From wooden planks to broken glass, and even large rusted bolts, it's impossible to miss the towers remains. After rummaging through the trees we found a small building with solar panels and even more remnants of the tower.

The structure atop White Cap Mountain.

It didn't take long for us to set up camp. From the northern outlook we could see large clouds of rain moving east, and we were worried we would be hit with rain. Luckily, it held up just long enough for us to witness a beautiful sunset over the many peaks visible from the scree fields. Once the sunset was over, the wind picked up, and we entered the tent.

The mountains before sunset.
The mountains during sunset.
The sun beneath the horizon.

We awoke the next morning to see the sunrise, which rose beside Jo-Mary Mountain. Large clouds of mist were flying past us through the sky at fast speeds. We could see rain coming, and it slowly moved it's way right over us. The sunrise was beautiful, but we had to get out of the rain and wind, so we hurried off the summit.

The Spencers before sunrise.
The colors of the sunrise are visible.

While both the sunrise and the sunset were absolutely gorgeous, the weather was a big negative. The first day was good, aside from cloudy northern skies over Katahdin. The only view we were able to get the second day was the sunrise. After that, clouds rolled in and the rain came down harder. The mountain was very beautiful, but I wish I could've enjoyed it more. Either way, it was worth it, and the views were great.

Views From the Ponds: Daicey Pond and Grassy Pond

The state of Maine encompasses more than 6,000 bodies of water, some in rural flat lands, and others high atop mountains. These lakes and ponds play an important part in Maine's ecosystem. No where else is this fact better shown than in Baxter State Park. There are many ponds within the southern expanses of the park, two of them being Grassy Pond and Daicey Pond.

Dissipating clouds around Doubletop Mountain from Daicey Pond.

Both ponds are crossed by the Appalachian Trail, meaning this is one of the last sections of trail thru-hikers see when going north, as Katahdin sits just north of the Tote Road. We started from Katahdin Stream Campground, as the trail brought us over a pleasant brook and through some beautiful forests.

Looking down the Appalachian Trail.
Crossing Katahdin Stream.

Eventually the Appalachian Trail began to approach Grassy Pond. There were a few side trails leading down to a sandy bank along Katahdin Stream. From here there was a view of Moose Bosom Mountain and Doubletop Mountain. The Tablelands of Katahdin could even be seen poking out from behind the trees.

Moose Bosom and Doubletop Mountains
Looking up to Katahdin.

The trail wrapped around Grassy Pond until we came across a small open portion of the trail. There was a great view looking across the water out to Mt.OJI, a mountain named due to the three slides that can be seen along it's southern slopes, each one looking like the letters O-J-I. The letters have faded since, but it's still visible to an extent.

The view from Grassy Pond.
Mt.OJI with it's three iconic slides.
The peaks in the background to the right are Mt.Coe and South Brother.

The trail crossed a brook, then came to a junction, where we left the Appalachian Trail in order to follow the southern shore of Daicey Pond. I was surprised to see that this trail was overgrown, due to the fact that it offers great views across Daicey Pond over to Mt.OJI and Mt.Coe. There is an exceptional view of Doubletop Mountain from here.

Katahdin and The Owl from Daicey Pond.
Doubletop Mountain

After arriving at Daicey Pond Campground, we took the Appalachian Trail along the northern side of the pond where there were views over to Sentinel Mountain, one of the most southern peaks in the park, and one of the shortest. After enjoying the views on the way, we soon found our way back to Katahdin Stream Campground.

Doubletop Mountain from Daicey Pond Campground.
Appalachian Trail crossing.
Looking across Daicey Pond to the campground.
Sentinel Mountain is seen above the trees.

There are few hikes I write about that don't include mountains, and rarely do I make an exception. I'd like to change this, so if you would like more write ups like this, please comment below. A hike is a hike, whether there's elevation gain or not. As long as you get to enjoy nature, that's all that matters.

The Edge of the Earth: The Bigelow Range

The Maine High Peaks area is the likely spot for those finishing the New England 67, or a favorite area for thru-hikers completing the Appalachian Trail. Aside from these people, the area doesn't get much attention, and that's fine. The mountains are great, the trails are rugged and beautiful, and the lakes and valleys are vast with wilderness. One of the best areas in the Maine High Peaks is the Bigelow Range.


West Peak - The Highest Point of the Bigelow Range

The Bigelow Range runs prominently  along the south side of Flagstaff Lake. It houses two peaks that exceed 4,000 feet, West Peak and Avery Peak. The Horns lie to the west along the ridge, and are included on the New England 100 Highest list. While there are a few more peaks, we were interested in the ones mentioned above, and our route for ascent was Fire Wardens Trail.

The trailhead can be found after Stratton Pond.

The trail begins at Stratton Pond, a small body of water with official campsites on it's shores. It is possible to drive down to the pond, but it's recommended that you park at the first parking lot marked with a kiosk, as the road ahead is rough. A bridge crosses Stratton Brook, and eventually leads to the trailhead. Many peaks can be seen from the pond as well.

Horn Pond Peak and Cranberry Peak seen from Stratton Pond.
The river crossing.
Little Bigelow can be seen in the distance.
Sugarloaf Mountain as seen from Stratton Pond.

Fire Wardens Trail begins as an old fire road, passing through some beautiful forests and running atop some bog bridges. Eventually, it climbs steeply up rocks, then reaches the junction with Horn Pond Trail, are descent. The path continued to climb until it reached Moose Fall Campsite. After the campsite the trail climbed very steeply up rock staircases for a while with minor views, until it reached Avery Col Campsite.

Looking up the trail.
Sugarloaf Mountain visible from the trail.
Spaulding Mountain can just barely be seen to the right.
The junction at Avery Col.

Avery Col had many tent platforms, as it's right along the Appalachian Trail. The caretakers cabin was closed, and all the water sources were running. We set up camp here, and climbed up the rugged trail toward Avery Peak. The trail eventually reached treeline, and the views were beautiful.


Looking up the trail and toward the summit.
Looking toward West Peak.
The summit lying just ahead.
Atop the narrow ridgeline of the summit.
Notice how the summit area drops dramatically to the left.
The ruins of the firetower.
Little Bigelow can be seen to the left.
Flagstaff Lake with the Border Ranges visible beyond.
Sugarloaf and Spaulding are visible yet again, with Saddleback visible to the far right.
The long ridge of Mt Abraham can be seen to the left.

We spent all day on the summit, awaiting the sunset. Some clouds rolled in, and many thru-hikers passed by. We had a long talk with a friendly group of thru-hikers, then climbed down the trail a bit until we found an area out of the wind to watch the sunset.


Looking to West Peak later in the day.
The Maine High Peaks visible later in the day.
The Crockers can be seen to the right of Sugarloaf.
The tallest summit, Mt.Coburn, can be seen looking north.
Looking over Flagstaff Lake before sunset.
The 100-Mile Wilderness can be seen here, just before sunset.
The sun setting from Avery Peak.
The sun setting over Flagstaff Lake.
The colors of the sun are still visible.

We stayed the night at Avery Col, which made for a nice camping area. There were no thru-hikers camping there, which was surprising. After awaking early, we made the rugged climb back up to Avery Peak to watch the sunrise. It rose above Flagstaff Lake, and it was a beautiful site to see.
Just before sunrise.
The sun starting to rise.
A different look at the sunrise.

After sunrise, our climb commenced up West Peak, the tallest point of Bigelow Mountain. The climb was steep, but as we approached the summit, the views and distant mountains began to rise above the short trees, and the trail lead us to the true, rocky summit of West Peak.


Looking toward the other High Peaks from West Peak.
The Horns as seen from West Peak.
Looking north from West Peak.
Flagstaff Lake
The Horns are seen down the ridge. East Kennebago is in the distance behind the peaks.

From here we could see The Horns, our next destination. The climb down West Peak was steep, as it climbed down a bare rocky ridge onto a flat spot, then it dived into the dense forest below. We climbed further and further down, until we started gaining elevation for South Horn, the taller of the two Horns. We eventually reached the scenic summit.


The High Peaks from South Horn.
Looking down to Horn Pond. Cranberry Peak can be seen at the end of the ridge.

After taking in the scenery, we hiked over to North Horn, which has almost the same views as South Horn. We eventually found our way to Horn Pond, which was very scenic, with cliffs looming over the water, and fish jumping in the water. Bella enjoyed swimming in the water, of course.


South Horn as seen from North Horn.
The Crockers can be seen in center shot.
West Peak from North Horn.
Flagstaff Lake, with the super tall sign visible.
Horn Pond. Bella had a good time here!

We took Horn Pond Trail back down to Stratton Pond. It made for an easy descent through the calm forest. When we got back to Stratton Pond, it made for a relaxing stop, and we enjoyed the views looking back to the Bigelows, and looking over to Sugarloaf Mountain.


Back where we started.

The Bigelows are beautiful range that gets little traction, and I'm okay with that. With places like the White Mountains getting crowded, it's good to see places like this that have not been discovered by the average inexperienced day hiker yet. The Maine High Peaks are left only to thru-hikers, people completing the New England 67, or experienced day hikers that know the best areas to hike.